Compare stock vs new rim width and offset — backspace, poke, and track delta.
Stock wheel
OEM size and ET from the door sticker or wheel stamp. Offset is always millimeters.
New wheel
Aftermarket plus-size defaults: 18×9.5 ET+22 — override with your quote.
Tire section (optional)
Add section widths for an approximate track / scrub estimate.
Fitment bay · hub-referenced section
Pad fixed · rim moves with ET & width
Δ offset
-13
mm · face outboard 13 mm
Stock
17×8
ET 35 · BS 5.38 in
New
18×9.5
ET 22 · BS 5.62 in
Inner lip
+0.24 in
vs stock (inboard)
Outer lip
+1.26 in
vs stock (outboard)
Approx. track change +26 mm (both sides)
Plus-sizing a wheel is rarely just a diameter jump. Move from a stock 17×8 ET+35 to an 18×9.5 ET+22 and the mounting face, inner lip, and outer lip all shift relative to the hub. This free wheel offset calculator turns width and ET into backspacing and frontspacing, then shows how far the new setup sits inboard or outboard versus OEM.
Enter stock and new rim diameter, width, and offset in millimeters. Diameter is optional for the core geometry but keeps the comparison readable. Toggle inches and millimeters for rim dimensions; offset stays in mm because that is how wheels are sold. Optionally add tire section widths for a rough track change estimate when both sides match the new package.
Treat the numbers as geometry, not a guarantee of zero rub — camber, fender liners, and load still matter. Pair this with the tire size calculator for overall diameter, and a bolt pattern check before you order.
“Will these wheels fit?” is really three questions: bolt pattern and hub bore, overall tire diameter, and where the rim sits in the arch. This wheel fitment calculator answers the third — width and ET versus stock — so you can see poke, tuck, and backspacing before you click buy. Match PCD with the bolt pattern finder, keep rolling diameter near OEM with the tire size tool, then use the offset delta here to decide if you need a spacer, a different ET, or a fender roll.
Common plus-size traps: going wider at the same offset pushes the inner lip toward the strut, and dropping ET at the same time adds outer poke into the fender. Lowered cars and trucks with big AT tires are least forgiving. Recheck both sides of the rim, not just the face you see from the street — backspacing is what hits uprights and tie rods.